Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Blazers


As men finally begin to embrace elegance again, leaving their wrinkled, untucked selves behind, the blazer has emerged as the new hoodie. In fact,the blazer is perhaps the single most significant piece of clothing in a man's wardrobe, not to mention one of the most versatile. It is perfectly suited to our ever-fluctuating dress code. The navy blazer is your little black dress. Just don't accessorize with heels.

In theory, the navy blazer is a rather uncomplicated piece of clothing. That said, it can be remarkably different depending on fabric, fit and style.You want to find as rich a shade of navy blue as possible. Duller tones tend to look cheap. You want your go-to blazer to be plush and convey warmth. Whether of linen, wool or cashmere, the right navy blazer will always make you look like you put in more effort than you actually did.Pair it with shirts in bright white, soft blues and pinks or any shade of gray.Just avoid crests and unless you're piloting a yacht, pass on the brass.

Monday, August 30, 2010

Shirts

                           
Once upon a time, the average working guy's closet contained maybe a dozen off-the-rack button-down shirts all in blue or white. But in the last decade with mostly positive results men have become braver, savvier and more discerning. Bright colors, stripes and prints have infiltrated their wardrobes. Shirts with spread collars and French cuffs are rubbing shoulders with all-American Brooks Brothers models. As this sartorial renaissance unfolds, men are also developing an appreciation for the most crucial part of shirt selection, fit.No matter how much a button down shirt cost, if it isn't cut precisely to fit the wearer's body, it's a liability which means the shirtmakers on Savile Row who once seemed destined to become dinosaurs now seem progressive. So seize the moment and make some room in your closet. Start with the perfect white shirt preferably a simple, custom-made one and go from there.

                                                      THE PERFECT FIT 
 
No matter what you paid for it or how trim your torso if your shirt doesn't fit properly, you're going to look like a schlump.Most men wear theirs a full half size too big. And a bloussy, billowy shirt is just as unflattering as a skin-tight one. And while you may have your measurements memorized, the numbers don't always add up no two manufacturers' shirts fit exactly alike. Try a shirt on before you buy it, take an honest look at yourself in the mirror and follow these guidelines for honing in on the perfect fit:

THE TORSO
There's a lot of middle ground between too loose and too tight. Find it. The shirt should be snug in the chest, but not so snug that the fabric pulls between the buttons.

THE BACK
Beefier guys should get a shirt with box pleats in the back-two folds between the shoulder blades - for a little  more room, without extra volume. Those with slimmer builds should opt for fitted style that contour down toward the waist. Either way, the seams of the shirt should lie on the curve of your deltoids (those are the muscles right behind your shoulders - the ones you'd work if you did push-ups).

THE WAIST
Sit down while you're wearing the shirt. It should skim your waist but leave just enought room to give when you're seated (and full).

THE NECK
The golden rule here hasn't changed: You should be able to comfortably fit two fingers in between your neck and the collar of the shirt when it's buttoned.

THE SLEEVES
The cuffs of the shirt should fall in the crook between the base of your thumb and your wrist.

THE TAILS
The tails should be long enough to lie under your rear end when you're seated. That will prevent the shirt from riding up or coming untucked, it will also give you better posture.

Friday, August 27, 2010

You Have Just Thirty Seconds

Social psychologists studying the impact of image have determined that's how long it takes for someone meeting you to form a whole laundry list of impressions about your character and abilities. The list of impressions encompasses:
  • Educational level
  • Career competence and success
  • Personality
  • Level of sophistication
  • Trustworthiness
  • Sense of humor
  • Social heritage
Now, thirty seconds doesn't give time to pull out your collage transcript, showcase your resume or present character references. It doesn't allow any time to explain that you have talent, skills, training and a substantial list of truly satisfied employers and customers.

In thirty seconds, people form all those different impressions based almost entirely on what they see -your clothes, hairstyle, carriage, smile and the rest of your nonverbal communications. Appearances do count.

These quick impressions can be lasting ones. Psychologists call it the halo effect. When your visual message is positive, the person you've just met will tend to assume that other aspects about you are equally positive. But unfortunately, if your visual message is negative, that new customer, client, coworker or prospective employer may not spend the time and effort to discover the talented person inside, even with a terrific grade point average.